Who does green building benefit?

by David Braddy LEED GA

In the 19th and early 20th century Architects and Urban Reformers set out to radically change the way we lived  by improving buildings, streets, neighborhoods and clean water systems to drastically reduce the spread of infectious disease and generally improve public health.  Can you believe there were people back then that thought it was just a fad and that we didn’t really need all that new technology.

My Grandmother was born in 1900 and when I was a young kid I still remember her saying she didn’t understand why people needed to have the toilet inside the house. I remember her resisting when her son’s added one to her house; she said “I have lived this long without it”.

Sometimes we have to change and adapt to preserve our way of living, whether we want to or not. We are in a different world today. We have VOC’s in building products that didn’t even exist back then; we have air conditioning and central heat and air. Many things changed, but homes were built the same and didn’t adapt to accommodate these new compounds and technologies.

Well here we are now in the 21st Century and some things never change, there are many who believe green building is a fad or not needed and simply an unnecessary expense. The fact of the matter is green building is a necessary and needed progression in building technology. We do not have to look very far to find sick homes and homes that make people sick.

I was in a home this week, you know, one of those homes that breathe naturally through the walls using the same building technology from the early 20th century that we are still using today, but this home was only built a few short years ago.  This home was un-inhabitable due to the amount of mold in the walls and was being totally gutted and rebuilt. Many have mistakenly believed this is from poor workmanship or an unqualified builder. This is not always the case.  I have seen many homes with mold issues that were built with excellent craftsmanship; the fault was with the technology not the builder.

Let me give you a tip; if your home smells musty it has mold. Do not ignore it.

This is why green building technology is the fastest growing segment in the building industry. Green building is not a fad or gimmick or something a slick marketer came up with to charge you more money for.  It is simply a better way.

A green built home is much cheaper to live in and much healthier if built correctly. So the person that benefits is you the homeowner.  No one has ever built an energy efficient home that’s more comfortable and healthier and regretted it, but many have cut corners and regretted it.

Cutting corners in something as important as the place you are going to be doing most of your breathing is never a good idea.

I know there are many that are still not convinced, just as there were a hundred years ago with technology that we now accept as the norm. Change and new ideas are never accepted without some resistance, this is simply human nature.  There will always be a way to save some money or do something cheaper.

An outhouse is much cheaper than indoor plumbing, but how many of those do you see today?  

For ideas on how to make your home more energy efficient and healthier visit http://LakeEcoGroup.com

One product with many benefits

by David Braddy LEED GA

Make your home stronger, energy efficient and healthier with one product

Imagine a building product that will make your home stronger, more energy efficient and healthier.

The product is closed cell Spray Polyurethane Foam (SPF), which is changing the way we build as more benefits are being discovered. A report released last year by the National Institute of Standards and Technology detailed the effects of Hurricanes with compelling evidence about the performance of spray foam insulation. When it comes to protecting roofs and walls from natural disasters SPF shows remarkable resistance to high wind uplift and blow off. This is attributed to its excellent adhesion qualities, lack of need for fasteners and no joints or edges for the wind to get under. As a matter of fact, laboratory test of closed cell SPF found the wind resistance exceeded the capacity of Factory Mutual and Underwriters Laboratory testing equipment. Another report by the NRF (National Roofing Foundation) discovered another unique feature of SPF roofs; they are not in danger of immediate leaks if penetrated by hail or other projectiles, provided the penetration does not go all the way thru the foam.  And most roofs could be repaired rather than replaced. This is why spray foam played a significant role in the construction of nation’s largest re-roofing project which was the 9.7 acre hurricane resistant Louisiana Superdome after Hurricane Katrina.

Wall assemblies that incorporate SPF in the cavities also have an increased racking strength of 300 – 400 percent in NAHB test as well as providing a superior air and moisture barrier.

The bottom line is that SPF is gaining more and more attention from contractors and building designers because of its high level of adhesion and resistance to wind uplift and blow off. The structural qualities and added strength alone make this a superior building product, but let’s look at the next benefit; Energy Savings.

You can have the most efficient HVAC system on the market but it will do you no good without a properly sealed building envelope. It is like having a cooler that keeps ice for 3 days. That may be true if it is sealed properly or air tight, but what happens if you fill it with ice on a hot day and leave the top open?   The ice won’t last and you will still be replacing ice quickly. Your house is no different.  With spray foam you are encasing and sealing your home with air tight insulation, imagine it being like that 3 day cooler. If sealed properly it will take very little to heat or cool, regardless of the HVAC system you choose. And don’t buy into the old myth, your home has to breathe, it is simply a myth and dangerous to you and your homes health. You do need proper ventilation, but not thru the building envelope itself, this causes mold and moisture issues. If you have any doubts about this simply look at the results. There are hundreds, if not thousands of homes and buildings right here at the lake that are full of mold or have moisture problems because they breathe. You will be hard pressed to find a SPF home with mold or moisture issues.

This brings us to another benefit of closed cell spray foam, it eliminates air and moisture movement thru the building enclosure eliminating mold and moisture issues, and it is also inert, which means there are no concerns of off-gassing VOC’s, so the air quality is also much better.  It’s hard to beat an SPF home.

Can your home be too tight?


By David Braddy LEED GA

We have heard for years that a home can be built to tight and that a home has to breathe. Well a home does not have to breathe; you do and there are ways that are much safer than leaky walls. Before air conditioning, this was never really a problem. As a matter of fact many homes were built without much, if any insulation.

How many homes today do not have air conditioning?

This changed building science tremendously and created a new set of problems that we are just now starting to address and understand. This problem is called Vapor Drive

Here are a few simple facts to help you understand this:

  • All siding  will eventually leak and is not intended to be the air or moisture barrier
  • Water Vapor always moves from warm and humid to the cold and dry side
  • Water Vapor is driven through even the smallest crack or opening, and many building materials themselves.
  • This water vapor is the primary cause of mold & rot, not necessarily an actual water leak.
  • If air can move through a wall so does water vapor.

This is a problem that has caused mold issues in many parts of the country even though builders were following proper building procedures and local building codes. Up until 2007 the International Building Code classified the entire country as a cold climate with only one solution for vapor drive and this caused many serious problems. Unfortunately those outdated codes and methods are still in use throughout many parts of the country.

The standard solution was to put a vapor barrier or poly on the inside of the wall assembly, this is fine in a cold climate with warm humid air on the inside most of the time, as this keeps the moisture from entering the wall cavity from inside, but in our area for instance we do not have that kind of climate. We have hot humid summers and air conditioned homes. Even in the winters we have very little humidity inside of our homes to create vapor drive from the inside out, yet that is what we have been told is proper building method for our area.

In our area Vapor Drive forces moisture from outside to the cool dry inside. This is opposite of the old one size fits all code and the reason for its change.

When you fill a wall with a highly vapor-permeable insulation (fiberglass batts) and cover the wrong side with a non-permeable vapor retarder you can have moisture problems that are unhealthy for you and your home, as this can become a wood rotting, mold feeding liquid, created by Vapor Drive.

Make sure before you build or remodel you are using the proper method for your area, as many local codes have not been updated. A simple discussion with your builder and local building inspector will usually suffice, as there is a plethora of information on this subject.

One last thing; for an air or vapor barrier to be effective it must be continuous, vapor drive can be quite strong and find even the smallest openings in a protective barrier. Pay special attention around door and window openings and use high quality flashing around all openings to ensure a good seal in the building envelope.

Which Type of Insulation is best?

By David Braddy LEED GA

This is a question I am asked on a regular basis, but it is a question that is not as easy to answer as it sounds. Do you want cellulose or fiberglass, batt or blown? What is the difference between the two?

In this area it seems that fiberglass is the insulation of choice, but does that mean it is better? It is probably the most readily available, it comes in batts so it is easy to handle and install in wall cavities. It also creates much less of a mess and is less labor intensive than many other forms of insulation. It can also be loose blown into attic spaces and wall cavities.

But when it comes to choosing the type to use homeowners and builders have two different issues to consider:

1. How well does it perform, in other words it R-value
2. What is its resistance to air and moisture movement

Are you looking for thermal barrier or an air barrier? What’s the difference?

Let’s start with the difference between an air and thermal barrier. Thermal barriers deal with keeping the heat in and cold out of the building envelope in the winter and the opposite in the summer, the higher the R-value the higher the thermal resistance, while a higher R-value will keep more conditioned or heated air in, it will not necessarily keep the air from moving through a wall, this is the job of an air barrier.

Some types of insulation can do both.

Fiberglass for instance, while the most popular insulation is not an effective air barrier. Air can filter through fiberglass, and if air can move through it so can moisture, which creates another set of problems if the wall cavity doesn’t have the proper vapor barrier (and what is proper in one part of the country may not be proper in another), but that’s another issue that deals with vapor drive and mold growth, which is another topic that I will discuss another time, so back to insulation.

What is the best for air infiltration and thermal resistance cellulose or fiberglass?

Neither is actually the best. The best is closed cell spray foam, it is a true air and moisture barrier at 2 inches thickness, it has an R-Value of 6.8 per inch, and it turns solid when sprayed so it adds strength to the structure. It has no off gassing of VOC’s as some fiberglass batts do (although formaldehyde free batts are readily available, just ask for them) and since it totally seals a wall cavity and air and moisture cannot pass through, it virtually eliminates mold problems. So why doesn’t everyone just use closed cell spray foam? Unfortunately it is the most cost and labor intensive, while it will pay for itself in the long run in several ways; it has the most upfront cost.

Next would be open cell spray foam, which has an R-Value of approximately 3.9 per inch, it is not solid and does allow some air infiltration, but since it is sprayed you still get a very good seal & coverage. While not quite as costly as closed cell, it is still much higher than cellulose or fiberglass.

Following very closely with an R-Value of approximately 3.4 to 3.8 per inch is loose fill cellulose which is blown dry (or wet, but I don’t recommend unless you allow ample time for drying) into a wall cavity behind a special fabric or loose in the attic. Cellulose is a much better air barrier than fiberglass and the loose blown is comparable in price to fiberglass. So cellulose has a slightly higher R-Value per inch and is a better air barrier, but blowing the walls is more expensive than fiberglass batts and very messy. I would actually choose cellulose over open cell spray foam, because the performance is close while the cost is usually not.

Now comes fiberglass at an R-Value of approximately 2.9 to 3.8 per inch of thickness, and it is the worst air barrier. Why is it still the most popular? If your walls are properly constructed with the proper vapor barriers in place or with a good sealant package, you can still enjoy a good performing energy package and still use fiberglass batts, which are very economical.

Keep in mind without a properly constructed, energy efficient wall to begin with you can lose up to 15% of the R-Value in a wall assembly due to thermal bridging of framing components, regardless of the type of insulation you use, so call a professional to consult with if you are unsure of the proper methods. The last thing you want is a drafty wall full of mold.

Believe or not there are more insulation options but these are the most common.

So as you can see there is no easy answer to which insulation is best for you, it depends on several factors, but you need the proper air barrier and thermal barrier to insure a healthy, comfortable, energy efficient living environment.

One of the most overlooked areas of home health is under your house

U.S. Department of Energy – Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy

Energy Savers

Crawl Space Insulation

If you properly insulate your crawl space—in addition to air sealing and controlling moisture, you will save on energy costs and increase your home’s comfort.

Before insulating or deciding whether to add insulation to your crawl space, first see our information about adding insulation to an existing house or selecting insulation for new home construction if you haven’t already.

How to insulate a crawl space depends on whether it’s ventilated or unventilated. Traditionally, crawl spaces have been vented to prevent problems with moisture; most building codes require vents to aid in removing moisture from the crawl space. However, many building professionals now recognize that building an unventilated crawl space (or closing vents after the crawl space dries out following construction) is the best option in homes using proper moisture control and exterior drainage techniques. There are two main reasons for this line of thinking:

  • Ventilation in the winter makes it difficult to keep crawl spaces warm
  • Warm, moist outdoor air brought into the crawl space through foundation vents in the summer is often unable to dehumidify a crawl space. In fact, this moist outdoor air can lead to increased moisture levels in the crawl space.

Insulating an Unventilated Crawl Space

If you have or will have an unventilated crawl space, then your best approach is to seal and insulate the foundation walls rather than the subfloor. The advantages of insulating the crawl space are as follows:

  • You can avoid the problems associated with ventilating a crawl space.
  • Less insulation is required (around 400 square feet for a 1,000-square-foot crawl space with 3-foot walls.)
  • Piping and ductwork are within the conditioned volume of the house so they don’t require insulation for energy efficiency or protection against freezing.
  • Air sealing between the house and the crawl space is less critical.

The disadvantages of insulating a crawl space include the following:

  • The insulation may be damaged by rodents, pests, or water.
  • A radon mitigation system will require ventilation of the crawl space to the exterior. Not planning for radon-resistant construction may necessitate air sealing the floor to mitigate the radon through ventilation.
  • The crawl space must be built airtight, and the air barrier must be maintained.
  • The access door to the crawl space must be located inside the home through the subfloor unless an airtight, insulated access door in the perimeter wall is built and maintained.

Steps for Installing Crawl Space Wall Insulation

  1. Review plans for this method of foundation insulation with pest control and local building officials to ensure code compliance.
  2. Eliminate or seal the foundation vents.
  3. Ensure that combustion furnaces and water heaters located in the crawl space are sealed-combustion units equipped with a powered combustion system.
  4. Seal all air leaks through the exterior wall during and after construction, including the band joist.
  5. Locate the crawl space access inside the home or install an access through the perimeter that will remain airtight after repeated use.
  6. Install rigid foam board or batt insulation—exterior foam, interior foam, or interior batt—to achieve complete insulation coverage. Insulate the band joist with batt insulation, as well as the crawl space access if it’s located in the wall.
  7. Install a continuous termite shield between the band joist and masonry foundation wall that covers the wall insulation and extends completely outside (or leave a 2- to 4-inch insulation gap at the top for termite inspection).
  8. Install a supply outlet in the crawl space, relying on the leakiness of the floor to provide the return air path.
Diagram of two options for insulating a crawl space. Option 1 is  exterior foam insulation. A protective membrane covers exterior rigid  insulation and folds over top course of foundation block. Option 2 is  interior foam insulation. Labeled parts include a sill gasket, unfaced  insulation in a band joist, and a 6-mil poly vapor diffusion retarder. A  protective membrane overlaps and extends down insulation to provide  capillary break. Rigid insulation (fire-rated) has joints taped or  sealed. A perforated drainage pipe is embedded in gravel, covered with  filter fabric, and located at the lower perimeter of the foundation  footing to provide drainage.
Diagram of third option for insulating a crawl space. Option 3 is  interior batt insulation. The diagram shows R-11 to R-19 batt insulation  along the crawl space. Labeled parts include a sill gasket, unfaced  insulation in the band joist, and a 6-mil poly vapor diffusion retarder.  A protective membrane overlaps and extends down insulation to provide  capillary break. A perforated drainage pipe is embedded in gravel,  covered with filter fabric, and located at the lower perimeter of the  foundation footing to provide drainage.

Steps for Installing Underfloor Insulation

  1. During the early phases of construction, the builder should inform all subcontractors (plumbing, electrical, HVAC, etc.) that they need to keep the space between the floor joists as clear as possible. Run drain lines, electrical wiring, and ductwork below the bottom of the insulation so that a continuous layer of insulation can be installed. For freeze protection, supply plumbing may be located within the insulation. The best approach is to run supply plumbing together in a few joist spaces. The insulation can be split and run around the plumbing.
  2. Seal all air leaks between the conditioned area of the home and the crawl space. High-priority leaks include holes around bathtub drains and other drain lines, plenums for ductwork, and penetrations for electrical wiring, plumbing, and ductwork (including duct boot connections at the floor).
  3. Insulation batts with an attached vapor barrier are typically used to insulate framed floors. Obtain insulation with the proper width for the joist spacing of the floor being insulated. Complete coverage is essential. Leave no insulation voids. The batts should be installed flush against the subfloor to eliminate any gaps, which may serve as passageways for cold airflow between the insulation and subfloor. The batts also should be cut to the full length of the joist being insulated and slit to fit around wiring and plumbing.
  4. Insulate the band joist area between the air ducts and the floor as space permits. Use insulation hangers (wire staves) spaced every 12-18 inches to hold the floor insulation in place without compressing the insulation more than 1 inch.
  5. The orientation of the vapor barrier depends on the home’s location or climate. In most of the country, the vapor barrier should face upward. However, in certain regions of the Gulf states and other areas with mild winters and hot summers, it should face downward.
  6. Insulate all ductwork in the crawl space.
  7. Insulate all hot and cold water lines in the crawl space unless they are located within the insulation.
  8. Close crawl space vents after ensuring that the crawl space and all the construction materials are dry.

For insulating truss floor systems, it’s better to install netting or foam board insulation to the underside of the floor trusses. Then, fill the space created between the netting or insulation and subfloor with loose-fill insulation.

Insulating a Ventilated Crawl Space

Here are some guidelines to follow for insulating a ventilated crawl space:

  1. Carefully seal any and all holes in the floor above (“ceiling” of the crawl space) to prevent air from blowing up into the house.
  2. Insulate between the floor joists with rolled fiberglass. Install it tight against the subfloor. Seal all of the seams carefully to keep wind from blowing into the insulation. Also, adequately support the insulation with mechanical fasteners so that it will not fall out of the joist spaces in the years to come. DO NOT just rely on the friction between the fiberglass and wood joists to secure it in place.
  3. Cover the insulation with a house-wrap or face it with a vapor barrier. The orientation of the vapor barriers depends on the home’s location or climate. In most of the country, the vapor barrier should face upward. However, in certain regions of the Gulf states and other areas with mild winters and hot summers, it should face downward.
  4. Install a polyethylene vapor retarder, or equivalent material, over the dirt floor. Tape and seal all seams carefully. You may also cover the polyethylene with a thin layer of sand or concrete to protect it from damage. Do not cover the plastic with anything that could make holes in it, such as crushed gravel. Be sure the headroom of the crawl space meets local code regulations if you are considering pouring a concrete slab.

Other Considerations

As mentioned above, when properly insulating a crawl space, you also have to consider moisture control measures and air sealing.

Finally, you need to consider radon resistance or control when installing any type of foundation. See the Learn More resources on the right side of this page (or below if you’ve printed it out) for more information about radon and radon-resistant construction techniques.

Learn More

Financing & Incentives

Professional Services

Federal Government Resources

Reading List

  • Radon-resistant Construction for Builders (PDF 46 KB). (2002). Energy Fact Sheet 30. Southface Energy Institute.
  • Crawlspace Insulation (PDF 235 KB). (December 2000). DOE/GO2000-0774. U.S. Department of Energy.
  • “New Crawl Space Data.” (August 2002). Energy Design Update (22:8); pp. 9-11.
  • Crawl Space Ventilation (PDF 223 KB). (July 2004). Forest Products Laboratory.

Indoor Air Quality Problems

De-Mystifying Indoor Air Quality

What causes IAQ problems and what can you do about it?

Gord Cooke, President of Building Knowledge Canada, is a Professional Engineer with 25 years experience in the residential building industry. An educator, industry consultant, and international presenter, Cooke specializes in presenting practical building science solutions in understandable terms.

Credit: John Beebe/Aurora Select

“Can you test the air in my home?”

That’s the call I get from builders who are looking for certification or validation that the homes they are building provide a healthy indoor environment. Since there is no definitive quantitative measure for air quality that would satisfy all potential occupants, I tell them that rather than spend thousands of dollars on testing, they should invest in cost-effective construction details, material, and equipment options that have proven to ensure the healthiest possible indoor air quality.

Most people tie “air quality” issues to the outside—air pollution from cars and factories or smog, haze, and ozone; however, the Environmental Protection Agency reports that a growing body of scientific evidence suggests that inside air can actually be more seriously polluted than outdoor air in even the largest and most industrialized cities.

I like to think of it this way: The air in homes originally came from outside, then we breathed in it, cooked in it, and showered in it without really doing anything substantial to improve it.

Also consider:

  • We spend more time—as much as 90% of it—indoors all year round. That means nine out of every 10 breaths is of indoor air—much of it from our homes.
  • We introduce pollutants into houses via furnishings, cleaning chemicals, and personal hygiene products. There are 4,000 to 6,000 chemicals that may be found in our houses. Plants and pets are also sources of dust, moisture, and odors.
  • Our interest in better comfort, lower noise, and greater security reduces the use of windows for natural ventilation.

Compounding these ever-increasing levels of indoor air pollutants is the fact that our homes are tighter than ever as we strive to build energy-efficient structures. Still, air tightness of buildings is not the main reason for increased indoor air quality concerns; in fact, controlling air leakage is an important element of air quality control because it keeps out unwanted outdoor pollutants such as pollen and fine dust particles and allows HVAC systems to better control the flow of filtered, conditioned air.

SIMPLE STRATEGIES

Fortunately there are simple things that we can do to ensure the healthiest possible air in homes. Most of these fall into one of four important strategies:

1. Remove Pollutant Sources.

  • Manage water to avoid mold and dampness. Plan drainage, flashing, grading, capillary breaks, and air sealing to avoid water intrusion.
  • Use low- or zero-VOC paints and finishes and choose hard-surface, prefinished flooring.
  • Specify solid wood products or, if using engineered wood products such as OSB, MDF, and particleboard, specify products that are tested to show they have low-VOC emissions.

2. Seal Out Pollutants.

  • Ensure a very thorough air seal between a house and an attached garage.
  • Seal the edges of exposed particleboard cabinetry or trim with a low-VOC acrylic sealer.
  • Create an “oasis” for occupants who suffer from respiratory problems, asthma, or allergies. This might entail creating a very “clean” bedroom with its own fresh, filtered air supply.

3. Ventilate the Space. All houses need more fresh air. While encouraging homeowners to open windows regularly is helpful, all projects should include provisions for mechanical ventilation. This could be as simple as installing good, quiet, efficient bath fans or a fresh intake into the main air handler return that are controlled by a timer to ensure extended hours of operation each day. The advanced solution is heat- and energy-recovery ventilation technology. These devices include one fan that exhausts stale air and another fan that delivers fresh air to a home. The waste energy from the exhaust air is used to preheat the incoming air in the winter and precool it in the summer.

A Control moisture to prevent mold.B Isolate garage from living  areas.C Install fresh air ventilation and filtration.D Keep water away  from foundation.E Use low-VOC building materials.F Use low-VOC paints  and finishes.

A Control moisture to prevent mold. B Isolate garage from living areas. C Install fresh air ventilation and filtration. D Keep water away from foundation. E Use low-VOC building materials. F Use low-VOC paints and finishes.

Credit: Harry Whitver

4. Filter the Air. Choose better filters for the central air handler. The new MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) filter effectiveness measurement scale under ASHRAE Standard 52.2 offers ratings from 1 to 20, with 1 being a simple, fiberglass furnace filter and 20 being a HEPA filter. A good pleated filter with a MERV rating between 8 and 12 is very helpful in removing fine dust from inside air.

These four steps are listed in order of effectiveness. Start with removal strategies first before spending too much time or effort on filtration.

The strategies are recognized and rewarded by certification programs such as LEED for Homes, the ANSI National Green Building Standard, and the new EPA Indoor airPLUS program.

Specification checklists from programs such as these provide a great starting point for building professionals wishing to ensure their clients are provided with the healthiest possible air. At a minimum, appropriate details always include:

  • Direct- or power-vented combustion appliances to ensure the safe, effective venting of combustion products directly outside.
  • Thorough, consistent water management details to ensure buildings don’t get wet and that if they do get wet they are able to dry within 48 hours to avoid mold and rot.
  • Properly sized HVAC systems to ensure consistent temperatures and humidity levels.
  • Effective, efficient ventilation systems that bring in just the right amount of fresh, filtered air.
  • Control of unwanted air leakage from outside to reduce dust and pollen entry.
  • Effective insulation and better, warmer windows to avoid condensation on surfaces.
  • Air handlers with filters with better filtration effectiveness—MERV 8 or better.

EDUCATE YOUR CUSTOMERS

To ensure your IAQ steps are effective, it’s vital to teach residents simple strategies for maintaining healthy indoor air. Here are a few best practices to pass on:

  • Never allow smoking indoors.
  • Choose hard-surface flooring; clean floors thoroughly at least once a week.
  • Limit the use of chemical cleaners, and choose unscented cleaning and personal hygiene products.
  • Keep pets and plants out of sleeping areas.
  • Manage indoor humidity and odors by using bathroom and kitchen fans regularly.

By implementing these details and specifications, as well as passing along a few consumer guidelines, building professionals can assure clients they are providing the potential for a healthy indoor environment. As hinted in the introduction, this does not mean you can guarantee air quality or prevent all indoor air quality problems. I like to remind my clients that I am a housing professional and not a health professional. Lifestyle choices and the personal health of occupants is beyond our control but to the extent that indoor air is an important input to our bodies, we can help ensure that air is as clean as possible.

New Standards For Indoor Quality

Recovery Time

Tighter homes and increasingly stringent residential energy-use standards put whole-house heat- and energy-recovery ventilators in the spotlight.

Starting in 2011, all new homes built to comply with the federal Energy Star Qualified Homes standard—perhaps 200,000 units if the NAHB’s forecast for that year holds true—will be required to provide an adequate amount of controlled, fresh-air ventilation as part of a comprehensive energy conservation and indoor air quality goal.

Already, the ANSI National Green Building Standard (NGBS) and LEED for Homes require builders to meet the airflow (cfm) per square foot ventilation standards established in ASHRAE 62.2-2007 for residential applications, the same thresholds that Energy Star will apply.

All three programs allow multiple options for compliance and, in the case of the ANSI and LEED for Homes rating systems, award additional points toward certification for upgraded solutions.

Of those options and upgrades, an increasingly likely choice for builders is mechanical ventilation: whole-house heat-recovery ventilators (HRVs) or energy-recovery ventilators (ERVs) integrated into forced-air HVAC setups.

According to the “2008 NAHB Construction Technology Survey” of 2,700 builders nationwide, 56% already report using mechanical means to bring a controlled amount of fresh air into the home (and about half of those extensively), while another 12% are considering it. Meanwhile, the most recent “Annual Builder Practices Survey” by the NAHB Research Center found that HRV use among builders increased from 2.7% of all new single-family units in 2002 to 3.6%—or about 23,000 homes—in 2008.

Those aren’t earth-shattering numbers—yet. But the combination of tougher (and greener) building standards and codes that will require whole-house ventilation in new homes; concern and market demand for healthier indoor air; and the improved performance, reliability, and ease-of-maintenance of ventilation equipment positions HRVs and ERVs to work into the spec sheets of an increasing number of homes.

Consider the experience of Asheville, N.C., HVAC contractor Duane Gentry: During the last three years, he says, demand for ERVs has jumped from about 1% of his HVAC system installations to nearly 70%. That spike in demand, he says, is driven by consumers who are increasingly savvy about green building and by architects and builders who are trying to satisfy clients and qualify the energy efficiency and health of their projects. “We’re putting them in virtually every custom home project we have,” and a growing number of tract homes, says the owner of Gentry Heating and Cooling. “With new state energy codes [reducing air infiltration], it won’t be long before they’re mandated for all homes.”

How They Work

Simply, HRVs and ERVs provide a balanced, controlled, and measured amount of fresh air into the house to cycle out pollutants, while also capturing and exchanging the heat—or sensible energy—from the exhausted indoor airflow with the incoming air. This exchange preheats incoming air in the winter, or “pre-cools” it (if to a lesser extent) in the summer, reducing the energy demand on the home’s primary heating and cooling equipment.

Because furnaces, heat pumps, and air conditioners don’t have to work as hard or as long with an HRV or ERV supplementing them, they also might perform longer at optimum levels and achieve better investment values.

The equipment design of an HRV is fairly simple: It is typically comprised of two fans that push a balanced amount of incoming and outgoing air, respectively, through fixed filters (some with HEPA technology to capture most airborne pollutants) positioned to effectively facilitate an exchange of heat between the two flows. ERVs follow the same general design and concept but with an additional, separate chamber to manage humidity levels in the air exchange.

To enable whole-house controlled ventilation and maintain optimum indoor air pressure, HRVs and ERVs are sized based on the square footage of the home and the unit’s cubic feet per minute (cfm) rating, a calculation that roughly equates to 0.05 cfm per square foot of conditioned space; a 2,000-square-foot house, then, would require a unit with at least 100-cfm ventilation capacity to achieve a rate of 0.35 air changes per hour, the industry-accepted ideal exchange rate for good ventilation.

To effect that performance, ERVs and HRVs must be connected to the home’s central forced-air heating and cooling system, achieve a balanced airflow, and have two connections to the outdoors—one to bring in fresh air, the other to exhaust stale indoor air.

The two exterior duct ports need to be separated 4 to 6 feet from each other to avoid cross-contamination, while the intake pipe also should be placed away from gas meters, vehicle parking areas, combustion appliance vents, and trash receptacles. Suppliers typically offer angled hoods to accommodate circumstances where ideal distances between pipes and potential contamination sources cannot be achieved.

Inside, the fresh, incoming—and now semi-conditioned—air can be delivered from the HRV/ERV by an independent duct to one or more locations in the house or, more simply, connected to the return vent in a typical forced-air system.

The effect of introducing preheated or precooled air into a room or rooms will not only freshen the indoor air but also reduce demand on the heating or cooling equipment to condition the incoming air.

In contrast to the incoming air through the home’s forced-air network, the removal of the stale exhaust air must be ducted independently, ideally from several rooms in the house, directly to and through the HRV or ERV. In the case of an ERV, ducts should at least vent air from rooms that generate moisture, such as the kitchen (though not directly from a range hood), baths, and laundry areas. “That’s the ideal setup because you can eliminate bath fans,” Gentry says, a tradeoff that helps tip the upfront cost and labor premium for an HRV/ERV into better balance.

According to the EPA, HRVs are most cost-effective in extreme climates (hot or cold) and where energy rates are high; in mild climates, the energy consumed by an HRV may exceed the amount it can save.

In hot, humid climates—specifically a swath from East Texas along the Gulf Coast states and up through the Carolina coastline—the predominant need is cooling the indoor air and often the removal of humidity. For those environments manufacturers and building scientists recommend ERVs for whole-house controlled ventilation.

ERVs look and work similarly to HRVs, but with the added ability to regulate humidity levels in the incoming air before too much of that moisture is introduced to a cooling condition. By removing excess humidity—also called latent energy—from the incoming air, an ERV helps mitigate the potential for condensation and related problems of mold and degradation inside the house.

The regulator also can add humidity to the fresh air as needed to maintain an optimum level for comfort and health, using a rotary wheel core and desiccants such as silica gel. As a result, ERVs extend their value in terms of indoor air quality beyond simply refreshing the indoor air. The bit of moisture vapor captured by an ERV also helps keep the exchanger core warm, lessening the potential for freezing damage and related repair or replacement costs during the winter.

Cost vs. Value

At upwards of $1,500 or more plus some extra labor by a heating contractor in a new construction environment, ERVs and HRVs are a relatively expensive choice to provide controlled ventilation and some measure of energy efficiency, especially in affordable housing.

“If equipment prices and the cost of installation went down, we’d probably go back to using an HRV,” says Brianna Conrow, project manager at HOST Development in Portland, Ore., which used HRVs for the first phase of an affordable project before switching to a supply-air-only system of whole-house fans. “And in small homes, there’s not a reasonable payback in energy savings for HRVs.”

There’s also a remarkable shortage of hard evidence that mechanical ventilation, and specifically an ERV or HRV, is truly as effective as the presumed benefits of energy savings or improved indoor air quality that equipment manufacturers and building scientists purport. “It’s become a Holy Grail to ask for definitive research on the air quality impacts of [controlled] ventilation,” says Sam Rashkin, national director of the Energy Star for Homes program at the EPA, whose team has scoured for and requested reports from manufacturers and the building science community without success—despite pressure from those groups to add controlled ventilation into the Qualified Homes standard. “The evidence [that controlled, mechanical ventilation reduces indoor air quality hazards] is anecdotal, at best.”

In addition, Rashkin’s team found field reports and observations that HRV/ERV equipment showed a high propensity not to work properly once installed, from dampers being pinched shut to kinks in the ducting systems that restricted airflow and clogged or misplaced intakes.

It’s also a “big leap of faith,” he says, that homeowners will follow through with scheduled and necessary maintenance of the equipment. “We suspect that a high percentage of systems will be installed poorly or be set up to fail because the owners won’t do things necessary to keep them running properly,” he says. “Having a ventilation system is a feel-good thing, but there’s a tremendous behavioral component that’s hanging in the balance.”

That’s an assertion that Gentry, among others, disputes. In his experience, maintenance is an easy chore for a properly trained homeowner, consisting of cleaning the filters and blowing dust out of the system twice a year and out of the core (or heat exchanger) annually—which many owners simply add to an HVAC service contract. “Every once in a blue moon you may have to replace the heat exchanger,” he says, “but in four years of selling ERVs I’ve never had to.”

In addition, emerging technologies such as electronically commutated motors (ECMs), which use less energy and have been a standard in larger HVAC equipment for years, and controls that allow the installer and the homeowner to more easily and reliably program, monitor, and adjust the equipment, appear to address at least some of the current concerns.

Despite Rashkin’s reservations, he and his team resolved to mandate minimum ventilation thresholds into the upcoming Energy Star Qualified Homes standard, likely spurring HRV and ERV use, because the 2011 version significantly boosts building envelope performance. “The new [2011] standard raises the bar so much higher for a home’s tightness that we have to get fresh air into them,” he says.

Rashkin also admits that, if properly installed and maintained, HRVs and ERVs are an upgrade over exhaust-only or supply-only systems because the air in and out of the equipment is balanced and therefore better ensures the proper amount of fresh-air flow and maintains a pressure balance inside the home.

As for the energy efficiency of HRVs and ERVs, Energy Star is working to create standards to qualify the heat recovery performance and label the equipment within a new product category for the federal program; the 2011 Qualified Homes ventilation thresholds will require Energy Star–labeled HRVs or ERVs to comply (if that ventilation option is chosen by the builder), just as the current standard does for exhaust-only (spot) ventilation units.

Already, the Home Ventilating Institute (HVI) independently certifies the performance of HRVs and ERVs to provide builders with a gauge to compare products and assess their value in terms of heat recovery and airflow rates, if not their impact on air quality.

Even so, HVI considers (if not certifies) the health benefits of controlled ventilation, including ERVs and HRVs, to be a critical factor in their use. “Even with construction materials … with low-VOC off-gassing, normal activities such as cooking and bathing overwhelm the home,” with potential pollutants that ERVs and HRVs can and do address, says Peter Grinbergs, the trade association’s chairman and the director of product development/engineering for Airia Brands, a ventilation equipment manufacturer.

For Gentry, that’s a theory he’s seen in action. “Getting fresh air into the house helps more than anything, and especially achieving healthy indoor air,” he says. “This isn’t smoke and mirrors.”

Rich Binsacca is a freelance writer in Boise, Idaho.

Lake of the Ozarks Eco Friendly Living

A Green Home Is A Healthy Home

A Green Eco-Friendly Home has 3 major goals:

1. To be energy efficient
2. To conserve natural resources
3. To maintain air quality in the home

Bolivar Insulation Solutions has products that address all three.

A well designed and eco-friendly home uses as little energy as possible and uses renewable energy when possible. There are many effective strategies for reducing the use of natural resources and energy use including green building products and green building methods.

Bolivar Insulation Solutions is the Lake Areas Energy Specialist that employs 3 BPI Energy Auditors and a LEED GA.
They sell a variety of products and services including; blown or batt insulation as well as open and closed cell spray foam insulation, replacement windows, siding, soffit & fascia and seamless gutters and their newest product will eliminate moisture and humidity from the crawl space of your home

Your home is only as healthy as the air quality in it

This is often the most over looked area of your personal health, but is the most important area to address.
This is the environment you spend the majority of your time in and the quality of air you breathe is a major contributor to health issues. Mold and mildew are very common and are a result of leaks, not just water but air leaks as well, if air can move through a wall or floor so does moisture. Mold and mildew can cause a variety of health issues and a poorly designed, maintained or outdated building envelope can be a contributor to this problem. The most important aspect of our indoor health and building efficiency is many times the most overlooked……

Your Crawl Space is Essential to Your Homes Health

We now know that venting a crawl space to the outside in a humid environment is just plain wrong, it would be no different than taking all the windows out of a basement and claiming that’s the proper way to ventilate your home. The fact is your crawl space should be treated no differently than you would a basement, it should be sealed and dehumidified. To dry your crawl space of all moisture that causes mold and rot is impossible by open outside vents in a humid environment. If your home ever smells musty after being closed up you already have a mold problem, this leads to premature failure of the structure and health issues for its occupants, including but not limited to allergies and asthma.

  • Did you know that up to 50% of the air on your first floor comes from the crawl space or basement?
  • Did you know that by properly sealing and dehumidifying your crawl space will improve the energy efficiency by 15% to 30%?

This is one of the most Eco-friendly, Energy Saving Products I have seen and if I had to pick only one thing to do, if my home had a crawl space, this would be it.

If you have a crawl space you need this system
Call Bolivar Insulation Solutions Today!
800-955-3492/573-346-3321